San Miguel de Tucumán
No description of San Miguel de Tucumán would be complete without mentioning that it is known as the Garden of the Republic, a nickname that will be seen to be fully justified the moment you start to walk a bit through its main square, through 9th July Park, of through any of the suburbs. Flowers are in bloom throughout the year; all the different types you would expect from a place with a subtropical climate. Jacaranda trees –their tops crowned with lilac flowers- and lapachos, with their pink and violet blooms, are typical of the exotic flora of the north. To see these at the end of the winter, or in springtime, when they are in full bloom, and spreading freely along all the paths to make a veritable carpet of flowers, is one of the finest sights that nature can offer tourists who come to Tucumán at this time of years. But there is one other little detail which will not go unnoticed –the delicate aroma of orange blossom that permeates many of its streets and squares, since tows of orange trees have been planted along the paths.
24th September Street is the commercial heart of the city; shops of all kinds, but especially ones selling clothing and fine-quality footwear, make up a whole brash array of commercial establishments that only seem to quieten down when it is time for that holiest of provincial rituals, the siesta. In marked contrast is Muñecas Street, with its elegant boutiques which tempt even the most demanding of customers.
If it is handicrafts that you are after, San Miguel de Tucumán offers these in abundance. In general, these types of shops are concentrated around Independence Square and the Casa Histórica. In the surrounding streets, tourist are seduced by sweets and delicacies that alternate in shop windows with ponchos and beautiful fabrics that have come from different points around the province. The typical Tucumán handicraft is the “randa”, which is not found in any other province. It is a fine linen cloth which originally came from Spain; the secret of how to make this as been handed down from generation to generation since the eighteenth century. The finest randas come from the tiny village of El Cercado in Monteros department, some 60 km from the provincial capital. Another handicraft which is unique to this region is the famous Tucumán poncho; woven from llama, alpaca or vicuña thread, it is and article that is much in demand since it is ideal for even the harshest of climates. However, production has declined noticeably of late, because the animal are in danger of extinction. On top of all this, as in other provinces in Argentina, good-quality leather goods, silverware and products made from straw and palm can be found in Tucumán.
What to visit
The wide, shady streets that are given a touch of colour and a very delicate fragrance by the large numbers of orange trees, plus the fact that is has none of the drawbacks of a large metropolis, combine to make San Miguel de Tucumán an ideal city to walk around.
Your tour could well start in Independence Square, in the middle of which is a fine sculpture to Freedom by Lola Mora. Facing onto the square is the Cathedral, the third oldest in the country, after Buenos Aires and Córdoba. It was moved from the original site of the city, Ibatín, to the spot it occupies today. It has undergone a number of renovations and modifications over the years, its present frontage dating back to 1856. it is neoclassical in style, with two Byzantine domes. Inside there is no clearly-defined style, but it contains the wooden cross that was used when the city was founded, and the remains of General Gregorio Aráoz de Lamadrid. It also houses a small museum where valuable vestments and priestly robes from the colonial era. It has recently been declared a Historic National Monument.
If you cross from the Cathedral to the other side of Independence Square, you come to San Francisco Church, one of the oldest in the city. Intil 1785 it belonged to the order of Dominicans, but in that year it passed to the Franciscans. Inside are to be found pictures dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries, some of the chairs used at the historic session of Congress in 1816, robes that belonged to San Francisco Solano, and the tombs of a number of Tucumán’s illustrious citizen. On its main altar can be seen the first flag that was raised by Belgrano in Tucumán. It is surrounded by railings which are a fine example of Spanish colonial work, donated by the congregation in 1694.
The church of La Merced, also known as Victoria Church, and located in 24th September Street which Rivadavia, recalls the passage of Manuel Belgrano through Tucumán. Inside are to be found a number of relics which form part of the country’s historical heritage, including a picture of Our Lady of Mercy, who Belgrano proclaimed General of all the Armies of the Fatherland: the gold-handled stick offer by him, and two flags captured from the Royalists, one at the battle of Salta (1813) and the other at the siege of Humahuaca (1817).
A few short steps away from the Cathedral is the Provincial Historical Museum, in the house which was the birthplace of Nicolás Avellaneda –one of two presidents of the Republic to have been born in Tucumán. Since 1941 this building has been a Historic National Monument. Its rooms contain displays of furniture, clothing, coins and other relics of the last century. The building itself is an architectural gem of the 19th century, a two-storey house with a fine staircase made of carved quebracho; it also has beautiful internal courtyards.
The last stopping-off place on this tour through the central part of San Miguel de Tucumán has to be the Casa Histórica, known to Argentinians simply as La Casa de Tucumán. It is true that virtually nothing remains of the original house belongin to doña Francisca Bazán de Laguna –just the room where the congressmen met- but the rest has been so carefully reconstructed that it is hard to tell the difference. The house led a very chequered existence until 1941 when it was declared a Historical National Monument, and the renowned architect Mario Buschiazzo was given the task of restoring it to its original appearance. To do this, Buschiazzo worked with original documents of the period, including photographs taken in 1869, and also excavated the foundations. Two bas-reliefs depicting the Independence struggle by Lola Mora –yet another of the glories of Tucumán- adorn the rear courtyard.
Since 1968 the house has provided a very original attraction which has appealed to thousands of visitors, both Argentinians and foreigners alike. This is a son et lumiére presentation which by means of a highly-developed audiovisual system recalls the Independence struggle in colours, light and sound. Production of this involved not only a large team of technicians but also a number of leading figures in the world of Argentinian music and theatre.
An absolute must is a visit to 9th July Park, which contains numerous activities ranging from cycle ways to pastry shops. But its main attraction are the gardens which are in flowers all year, with hundreds of examples of typical trees of the region, jacarandas, lapachos, and tipas. With display bearing titles like La Pérgola (The Bower), El Rosedal and El Reloj de Las Flores (The Flower Clock), together with its collection of replicas of famous statues imported from France at the beginning of the century, the park is an absolute delight. It is reached from Independence Square by following 24 September Street in an easterly direction for eight blocks.
Places of interest in the surrounding area
In its tiny area –it covers barely 0.6% of the total land mass- the province of Tucumán offers a wonderfully-varied range of different scenery; from plains covered with thorny scrub to luxuriant jungle on the slopes of the mountains, and from saline depressions to snow capped mountain peaks.
The Calchaquíes peaks and the Quilmes ranges are prominent in the north west, while further south are to be found the Aconquija range, which has majestic snow capped summits reaching up to almost 5,000 m above sea level. Many rivers rise in these mountain systems and drain in an easterly direction to where the land gradually levels off to form a plain.
It is important to remember that distances in Tucumán are always short. Most roads are paved and in excellent condition, an so it is very easy to tour the province by car.
A number of excursions can be made in a day, returning to the provincial capital to spend the night. One of these takes you to Marcos Paz, Yerba Buena, La Rinconada and San Pablo. This is the most attractive residential area, and from the road that leads up San Javier Hill (1270 m) there are wonderful views over the city of San Miguel de Tucumán. At the foot of the hill lies La Rinconada, where the Golf Club is located, with swimming pool and children’s play area. Climbing up the hill, you come to Villa Nogués –here there is an inn and tennis court. And Raco, two village resorts with fine week end houses. These places are no more than 50 km away the city.
Leaving Tucumán along national route nº 9 and branching off onto provincial route 311, you come to San Pedro de Colalao, another pretty summer resort where a large swimming pool –with water from the Tacana River- is the attraction for visitors from near and far. It is also a favourite place four young people as it has a very active night life.
Another extremely attractive tour from San Miguel de Tucumán is along national route 38 to Acheral (46 km), and then branching off onto provincial route 307 which takes you to the valley region. A mountain track (partly unsurfaced) then leads you alongside the Los Sosa river to the Tafí Valley (2,000 m). The entrance to this valley is absolutely breathtaking. Awaiting you ere is a beautiful landscape of dense jungle which rises up the slopes of mountains with summits as high as 5,000 m above sea level. Rivers cut through the wole valley. But there is more than simply the scenery to astound visitors here: there are the remains of its ancient inhabitant, who left behind strange, carved stones known as menhirs, which are scattered over a hill in La Angostura Park.
Las Carreras, El Potrerillo and El Mollar are other valleys in the Tafí system, and these can boast inns, restaurants, hotels and pastry shops. There is a polo club, and also a hunting club. The local sweets and cheeses produced in Las Carreras are famous.
The valley reached its highest point in Infiernillo dale; from ere it drops down to Amaicha del Valle (164 km). From this point on the scenery changes completely, with vegetation typical of a dry, hot climate. Amaicha del Valle is home to the only indigenous community still surviving today in the province, and is also famous for its Pachamama Festival; this revives the ancient rituals of worshiping the land. Anyone interested in the archaeological past will want to visit the ruins of the ancient city that was once inhabited by the Quilmes Indians, and which is only 20 km away.
If you follow provincial route 301 in a southerly direction from San Miguel de Tucumán, you can visit interesting villages like Taco Ralo (119 km) and Simoca (50 km). A local handicrafts market is held every Saturday in the latter, and regional dishes which date back many years can be tried. Taco Ralo has an inn and thermal springs.
No description of San Miguel de Tucumán would be complete without mentioning that it is known as the Garden of the Republic, a nickname that will be seen to be fully justified the moment you start to walk a bit through its main square, through 9th July Park, of through any of the suburbs. Flowers are in bloom throughout the year; all the different types you would expect from a place with a subtropical climate. Jacaranda trees –their tops crowned with lilac flowers- and lapachos, with their pink and violet blooms, are typical of the exotic flora of the north. To see these at the end of the winter, or in springtime, when they are in full bloom, and spreading freely along all the paths to make a veritable carpet of flowers, is one of the finest sights that nature can offer tourists who come to Tucumán at this time of years. But there is one other little detail which will not go unnoticed –the delicate aroma of orange blossom that permeates many of its streets and squares, since tows of orange trees have been planted along the paths.
24th September Street is the commercial heart of the city; shops of all kinds, but especially ones selling clothing and fine-quality footwear, make up a whole brash array of commercial establishments that only seem to quieten down when it is time for that holiest of provincial rituals, the siesta. In marked contrast is Muñecas Street, with its elegant boutiques which tempt even the most demanding of customers.
If it is handicrafts that you are after, San Miguel de Tucumán offers these in abundance. In general, these types of shops are concentrated around Independence Square and the Casa Histórica. In the surrounding streets, tourist are seduced by sweets and delicacies that alternate in shop windows with ponchos and beautiful fabrics that have come from different points around the province. The typical Tucumán handicraft is the “randa”, which is not found in any other province. It is a fine linen cloth which originally came from Spain; the secret of how to make this as been handed down from generation to generation since the eighteenth century. The finest randas come from the tiny village of El Cercado in Monteros department, some 60 km from the provincial capital. Another handicraft which is unique to this region is the famous Tucumán poncho; woven from llama, alpaca or vicuña thread, it is and article that is much in demand since it is ideal for even the harshest of climates. However, production has declined noticeably of late, because the animal are in danger of extinction. On top of all this, as in other provinces in Argentina, good-quality leather goods, silverware and products made from straw and palm can be found in Tucumán.
What to visit
The wide, shady streets that are given a touch of colour and a very delicate fragrance by the large numbers of orange trees, plus the fact that is has none of the drawbacks of a large metropolis, combine to make San Miguel de Tucumán an ideal city to walk around.
Your tour could well start in Independence Square, in the middle of which is a fine sculpture to Freedom by Lola Mora. Facing onto the square is the Cathedral, the third oldest in the country, after Buenos Aires and Córdoba. It was moved from the original site of the city, Ibatín, to the spot it occupies today. It has undergone a number of renovations and modifications over the years, its present frontage dating back to 1856. it is neoclassical in style, with two Byzantine domes. Inside there is no clearly-defined style, but it contains the wooden cross that was used when the city was founded, and the remains of General Gregorio Aráoz de Lamadrid. It also houses a small museum where valuable vestments and priestly robes from the colonial era. It has recently been declared a Historic National Monument.
If you cross from the Cathedral to the other side of Independence Square, you come to San Francisco Church, one of the oldest in the city. Intil 1785 it belonged to the order of Dominicans, but in that year it passed to the Franciscans. Inside are to be found pictures dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries, some of the chairs used at the historic session of Congress in 1816, robes that belonged to San Francisco Solano, and the tombs of a number of Tucumán’s illustrious citizen. On its main altar can be seen the first flag that was raised by Belgrano in Tucumán. It is surrounded by railings which are a fine example of Spanish colonial work, donated by the congregation in 1694.
The church of La Merced, also known as Victoria Church, and located in 24th September Street which Rivadavia, recalls the passage of Manuel Belgrano through Tucumán. Inside are to be found a number of relics which form part of the country’s historical heritage, including a picture of Our Lady of Mercy, who Belgrano proclaimed General of all the Armies of the Fatherland: the gold-handled stick offer by him, and two flags captured from the Royalists, one at the battle of Salta (1813) and the other at the siege of Humahuaca (1817).
A few short steps away from the Cathedral is the Provincial Historical Museum, in the house which was the birthplace of Nicolás Avellaneda –one of two presidents of the Republic to have been born in Tucumán. Since 1941 this building has been a Historic National Monument. Its rooms contain displays of furniture, clothing, coins and other relics of the last century. The building itself is an architectural gem of the 19th century, a two-storey house with a fine staircase made of carved quebracho; it also has beautiful internal courtyards.
The last stopping-off place on this tour through the central part of San Miguel de Tucumán has to be the Casa Histórica, known to Argentinians simply as La Casa de Tucumán. It is true that virtually nothing remains of the original house belongin to doña Francisca Bazán de Laguna –just the room where the congressmen met- but the rest has been so carefully reconstructed that it is hard to tell the difference. The house led a very chequered existence until 1941 when it was declared a Historical National Monument, and the renowned architect Mario Buschiazzo was given the task of restoring it to its original appearance. To do this, Buschiazzo worked with original documents of the period, including photographs taken in 1869, and also excavated the foundations. Two bas-reliefs depicting the Independence struggle by Lola Mora –yet another of the glories of Tucumán- adorn the rear courtyard.
Since 1968 the house has provided a very original attraction which has appealed to thousands of visitors, both Argentinians and foreigners alike. This is a son et lumiére presentation which by means of a highly-developed audiovisual system recalls the Independence struggle in colours, light and sound. Production of this involved not only a large team of technicians but also a number of leading figures in the world of Argentinian music and theatre.
An absolute must is a visit to 9th July Park, which contains numerous activities ranging from cycle ways to pastry shops. But its main attraction are the gardens which are in flowers all year, with hundreds of examples of typical trees of the region, jacarandas, lapachos, and tipas. With display bearing titles like La Pérgola (The Bower), El Rosedal and El Reloj de Las Flores (The Flower Clock), together with its collection of replicas of famous statues imported from France at the beginning of the century, the park is an absolute delight. It is reached from Independence Square by following 24 September Street in an easterly direction for eight blocks.
Places of interest in the surrounding area
In its tiny area –it covers barely 0.6% of the total land mass- the province of Tucumán offers a wonderfully-varied range of different scenery; from plains covered with thorny scrub to luxuriant jungle on the slopes of the mountains, and from saline depressions to snow capped mountain peaks.
The Calchaquíes peaks and the Quilmes ranges are prominent in the north west, while further south are to be found the Aconquija range, which has majestic snow capped summits reaching up to almost 5,000 m above sea level. Many rivers rise in these mountain systems and drain in an easterly direction to where the land gradually levels off to form a plain.
It is important to remember that distances in Tucumán are always short. Most roads are paved and in excellent condition, an so it is very easy to tour the province by car.
A number of excursions can be made in a day, returning to the provincial capital to spend the night. One of these takes you to Marcos Paz, Yerba Buena, La Rinconada and San Pablo. This is the most attractive residential area, and from the road that leads up San Javier Hill (1270 m) there are wonderful views over the city of San Miguel de Tucumán. At the foot of the hill lies La Rinconada, where the Golf Club is located, with swimming pool and children’s play area. Climbing up the hill, you come to Villa Nogués –here there is an inn and tennis court. And Raco, two village resorts with fine week end houses. These places are no more than 50 km away the city.
Leaving Tucumán along national route nº 9 and branching off onto provincial route 311, you come to San Pedro de Colalao, another pretty summer resort where a large swimming pool –with water from the Tacana River- is the attraction for visitors from near and far. It is also a favourite place four young people as it has a very active night life.
Another extremely attractive tour from San Miguel de Tucumán is along national route 38 to Acheral (46 km), and then branching off onto provincial route 307 which takes you to the valley region. A mountain track (partly unsurfaced) then leads you alongside the Los Sosa river to the Tafí Valley (2,000 m). The entrance to this valley is absolutely breathtaking. Awaiting you ere is a beautiful landscape of dense jungle which rises up the slopes of mountains with summits as high as 5,000 m above sea level. Rivers cut through the wole valley. But there is more than simply the scenery to astound visitors here: there are the remains of its ancient inhabitant, who left behind strange, carved stones known as menhirs, which are scattered over a hill in La Angostura Park.
Las Carreras, El Potrerillo and El Mollar are other valleys in the Tafí system, and these can boast inns, restaurants, hotels and pastry shops. There is a polo club, and also a hunting club. The local sweets and cheeses produced in Las Carreras are famous.
The valley reached its highest point in Infiernillo dale; from ere it drops down to Amaicha del Valle (164 km). From this point on the scenery changes completely, with vegetation typical of a dry, hot climate. Amaicha del Valle is home to the only indigenous community still surviving today in the province, and is also famous for its Pachamama Festival; this revives the ancient rituals of worshiping the land. Anyone interested in the archaeological past will want to visit the ruins of the ancient city that was once inhabited by the Quilmes Indians, and which is only 20 km away.
If you follow provincial route 301 in a southerly direction from San Miguel de Tucumán, you can visit interesting villages like Taco Ralo (119 km) and Simoca (50 km). A local handicrafts market is held every Saturday in the latter, and regional dishes which date back many years can be tried. Taco Ralo has an inn and thermal springs.
